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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.